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Northern Vietnam is not just a place on a map; it’s a living tapestry woven with the threads of ancient traditions. Beyond the well-trodden tourist paths lie craft villages that are not mere historical sites, but pulsating communities where every corner tells a story. For the discerning traveler and photographer, these villages offer an unparalleled glimpse into the soul of the nation.
Cu Da and Thổ Hà, though distinct in their crafts and character, form a perfect cultural pairing. One glows with golden vermicelli under the hazy sun; the other breathes with the misty humidity of the river, curing delicate rice paper. Together, they create a captivating narrative of resilience, artistry, and the enduring rhythm of Vietnamese life.
Why These Villages Are musts for photographers
Unscripted Authenticity: This is life, not a performance. Artisans work in open courtyards and along ancient riverbanks, their hands moving with the practiced ease of generations. The techniques are non-mechanized, the smiles are genuine, and the daily rhythm is dictated by the craft itself, offering a true reflection of rural Vietnam.
A Symphony of Textures and Patterns: The very processes of these crafts transform the villages into vast, open-air studios. Imagine thousands of bamboo racks creating dramatic repeating patterns—the golden threads of Cu Da’s vermicelli against the warm brick, and the translucent moons of Thổ Hà’s rice paper glowing in the soft light. It’s a constantly shifting canvas of light, shadow, and rich texture.
A Study in Contrasts: The experience of moving from Cu Da to Thổ Hà is a study in beautiful contrasts. One is an architectural timeline of land and prosperity; the other is a dense, riverside enclave shaped by water and trade. This duality provides a deeply nuanced understanding of Vietnamese culture.
Just 20 kilometers southwest of Hanoi’s bustling center, the 400-year-old Cu Da village is a cultural jewel, renowned for its unique architectural fusion and the revered craft of making miến (arrowroot vermicelli). The village flourished in the late 19th and early 20th centuries due to its location on the banks of the Nhuệ River and proximity to old trade routes. Many villagers became successful merchants, especially in the trade of soy sauce and vermicelli noodles. Due to its well-preserved, timeless charm, Cu Da Village is a popular filming location for Vietnamese movies, television series, and photo shoots, especially those set in the early to mid-20th century.
An Architectural Timeline in Brick and Mortar
Cu Da’s landscape is a palimpsest of Vietnam’s history, where different eras stand harmoniously side-by-side:
Traditional Northern Vietnamese (Bac Bo) Homes: Characterized by gracefully tilted roofs, weathered yellow-tone bricks, and spacious communal courtyards paved with red brick (sân gạch). These courtyards are the vibrant heart of the vermicelli-making process.
Elegant French Colonial Villas: The wealth generated by these merchants allowed them to build new, grand houses. During the French colonial period, they incorporated European architectural elements, creating a unique fusion style that defines the village today
Winding Alleys of Time: Connecting it all is a labyrinth of narrow, stone-paved alleys, their walls draped in moss and history, inviting you to lose yourself in a bygone era.
The Craft of Miến: The Art of Arrowroot Vermicelli
Cu Da’s vermicelli is a premium product, celebrated for its chewy texture and clean taste, a direct result of its pure arrowroot starch base and meticulous preparation.
A Ritual of Purification: The secret lies in the painstaking purification. The arrowroot starch is soaked, rinsed, and filtered through cloth multiple times to remove every trace of impurity, grit, or resin. This dedication is what gives miến its famous clarity and resilience, preventing it from becoming mushy when cooked.
A Signature Palette: The final product is known for its two distinct hues: a radiant golden yellow, achieved by naturally tinting the starch with turmeric, and a pure, crystal-clear white from the unadulterated arrowroot.
Seasonal Spectacle: The village is most vibrant from September to December (Lunar Calendar), as production intensifies for the Tết (Lunar New Year) holiday. During this peak season, the entire village—every courtyard, rooftop, and available patch of ground—is transformed into a breathtaking sea of golden vermicelli drying in the sun, a dynamic and unforgettable spectacle.
A scenic drive northeast of Hanoi, Thổ Hà village offers a completely different atmosphere. Once a bustling ceramic hub and river port, its kilns have fallen silent, but the village has masterfully reinvented itself around the intricate production of rice paper (bánh đa nem) and rice crackers (bánh đa). It’s worth noting that Tho Ha Village holds a major traditional festival annually from the 20th to the 22nd of the first lunar month. The festival features processions, traditional games (quan họ singing, chess, cockfighting), and ceremonies to honor the village’s tutelary gods and pray for prosperity.
A Village Sculpted by Clay and Water
Thổ Hà’s unique character is immediately palpable, shaped by its relationship with the Cầu River and its artisanal past:
A Riverside Tapestry: Nestled in a tight loop of the Cầu River, the village feels like an island frozen in time. Its layout is incredibly dense, with alleys so narrow they are perpetually shaded, creating a cool, intimate labyrinth.
Old Houses: Tho Ha is famous for its hundreds of old houses built from the late 19th to early 20th centuries. They are constructed with unique materials: walls made from crushed pottery and mortar (đất nung vỡ), which give the village its distinctive, weathered, and beautiful texture. These walls are cool in summer and warm in winter.
Serene, Misty Rhythms: Life here moves to the gentle pace of the river. Early mornings are enveloped in the soft, wood-scented smoke from steaming stations, while the quiet lapping of water against old stone steps creates a profoundly serene and photogenic atmosphere.
The Craft of Bánh Đa: A Delicate Balance of Skill and Climate
In Thổ Hà, making rice paper is a collective village effort, a precise dance that begins in the pre-dawn darkness.
The Early Grind: Work starts intensely early, often by 3:00 AM, with the grinding of overnight-soaked rice into a flawlessly smooth, liquid batter.
The Magic of River Mist: Artisans pour and steam the batter into perfect, paper-thin sheets. The key to Thổ Hà’s famed product—its unparalleled flexibility and delicate strength—lies in the drying. Unlike other regions that use harsh, direct sunlight, Thổ Hà traditionally leverages the cool, humid air and gentle mist from the river. This natural “curing” process gives the rice paper its ideal pliable texture for rolling fresh spring rolls.
A Visual Feast of Contrasts: The village courtyards are a patchwork of two main products: the translucent white circles of spring roll rice paper and the larger, speckled, golden-orange disks of rice crackers (bánh đa), enriched with sesame and coconut. The geometric patterns of the drying racks and the contrast between the two products offer stunning visual depth and countless compositional opportunities.
Ready to move beyond the postcard and capture the true, beating heart of Vietnam? These are the scenes where light, life, and legacy converge.
With Momentlives’ Vietnam Photo Tours, you won’t just take pictures—you’ll immerse yourself in the living history of Cu Da and Thổ Hà. We position you to tell the stories that often go untold.
You will have the opportunity to:
Capture Intimate Portraits: Document the focused intensity and skilled hands of master artisans, preserving fleeting moments of concentration and pride.
Master Light and Pattern: Play with the dramatic interplay of light and shadow in rustic alleys, and compose stunning shots of the repeating patterns created by these timeless crafts.
Build a Narrative Portfolio: Go home with a cohesive body of work that doesn’t just show places, but tells the profound story of the people and traditions that define them.
Our tours are meticulously designed for:
Photographers of all levels who want to elevate their craft in visually rich, authentic environments.
Cultural enthusiasts who seek a deeper understanding than a standard tour can provide.
Travelers who crave meaningful experiences and want to return with a portfolio of emotionally resonant images.
Join us on a Vietnam Photo Tour and do more than witness tradition—become a part of its story, if only for a moment. Let the tradition of these authentic villages inspire your most creative work.